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> Out of the Cage! > July/August 2005 > NYC Feral Cat Council: Summer Care for Feral Cats
NYC Feral Cat Council
Summer Care for Feral Cats
by Bryan Kortis, Executive Director, Neighborhood
Cats
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Summer weather requires special
care for feral cat colonies, including ensuring that
adequate water is available, that food is protected
from heat and scavenging wild animals, and that cats
are protected from parasites. |
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Hot weather brings a host of challenges for the
feral cat caretaker, including heat, insects, and the increased
presence of other animals. Here are some simple and inexpensive
ways to beat summer's bite.
Boy, It's Hot!
First and foremost, high temperatures mean extra-vigilance
is required to make sure the cats have an adequate supply of water.
It's vital to prevent dehydration, which can lead to loss of appetite
and weight and other more serious and threatening conditions. Fresh
water should be placed out daily in bowls large enough to ensure
that all the water doesn't evaporate away.
If daily replenishment is not possible, then consider
using an automatic waterer. These relatively inexpensive devices
operate on gravity, with water stored in an upright jug and filtering
down into a bowl. The one-gallon sizes are recommended because they
are small and easy to clean, which you need to do periodically to
prevent the growth of algae, or you can buy a 2.75-gallon version.
Your best bet is to buy two of them so you can simply swap jugs
when you need to refill. Check out the Le Bistro models available
from KV
Vet Supply.
Ideally, water (and food) should be placed in a
covered container such as a 30-gallon Rubbermaid storage bin with
one long side completely cut out, leaving only a few inches at the
bottom to prohibit flooding. The bin will protect the food and water
from sun and rain.
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Wet food spoils much faster
than dry in extreme heat. When temperatures soar, just
supply dry food. |
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Speaking of food, don't place it out in the middle
of a hot day — cats tend to sleep off the heat and your offerings
may go to waste. Better to feed in the morning before the hot part
of the day, or in the evening when temperatures cool off a bit.
During those times when the heat strikes 24 hours a day, just put
out dry food, as the wet variety will spoil much faster. That is,
unless the cats arrive at a regular time and eat up before the food
can go bad.
Bugs and Slugs!
Fleas and ants are the two most prominent insects
making their most noticeable appearances after the cold of winter
has faded away. Ants are easy to keep out of food — simply
build a little moat they can't cross. You can do this by taking
a small tray, whether it's a plastic takeout container, an aluminum
pan, or the like, and fill it with a half-inch or so of water. Then
place your bowls of food inside the pan. The ants won't be able
to cross the water to get to the food.
Moats won't keep out slugs — those snails
without shells who leave behind rather slimy trails. While they
may leave something to be desired in the tactile department, slugs
aren't dumb. If you sprinkle a little dry food on the ground a few
inches away from the cat food bowl, the slugs will eat that rather
than go through the effort of climbing the bowl.
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Applying beneficial nematodes
to the moist soil in your cats' territory can help fight
fleas. |
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Fleas are a fact of feral life, but there are natural
ways to combat them. First, garlic in the diet has a deterrent effect.
Bits of raw garlic, if the cats will tolerate a small amount in
their food, will do the trick. If they turn their little noses away,
try Petguard's Yeast and Garlic wafers, which many cats find to
be a tasty treat. If the cats' territory includes an area with moist
soil, you can also apply beneficial nematodes. These are microscopic
worms that consume flea larvae; simply mix them with water and spray
over the area in question. They can be purchased from garden supply
stores and many online sites. (Click
here for more than you want to know about nematodes, plus a
long list of suppliers.) For ordering, GrowQuest.com
seems to have better prices than most.
Keep in mind that a healthy, well-fed feral may
have a few fleas, but should not become infested or be constantly
scratching. Any type of parasitic infestation, including fleas or
ear mites, is usually a sign of either a poor diet or an underlying
health problem.
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Feed feral cats early in the
morning or just before dusk to avoid attracting nocturnal
critters like raccoons, skunks, and possum. |
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Wildlife!
Got raccoons invading the food bowls? Skunks? Possum?
These critters are nocturnal and, except on rare occasions, only
start to venture out to eat when the sun goes down. To avoid attracting
them, feed the cats during daylight hours, preferably early in the
morning when the cool of the night lingers, or just before dusk
when the thermometer starts to drop. If you do feed just before
dusk and have a problem with wildlife, remove any remaining food
before you leave. Cats are habitual creatures and will learn they
need to eat up while the goods are still there.
And, of course, summer, winter, spring or fall —
get them fixed!
Bryan
Kortis is co-founder and Executive Director of Neighborhood
Cats. A graduate of Cornell University and the University of
California, Berkeley School of Law, he has experience as both an
attorney and a filmmaker. He began working with ferals when he saw
firsthand that the situation for street cats in New York City was
dire and a new approach like TNR was needed.
Click
here to learn more about the NYC Feral Cat Council (NYCFCC),
a coalition of Alliance Participating Organizations dedicated to
providing responsible care for NYC's feral cats.
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